In Manatee County is one of the best anchorages in the Tampa Bay area, right near the mouth of the Manatee River with an enormous cross serving as an aid to navigation. Dozens, probably hundreds of boaters pass through, perhaps not knowing that the cross is part of a national memorial, signifying one of the first points of contact for European explorers, who may well have found the anchorage, briefly, at least, as pleasant and peaceful then as it is today.
Just off S.R. 64 in Bradenton, it is possible to travel back nearly five centuries to the De Soto National Memorial. Perhaps what is most amazing is that you leave heavy traffic and stoplights in just a few hundred yards and enter a realm of peace and tranquility that is increasingly difficult to find in ever-growing Florida.
Not that it was always peace and tranquility, of course. In 1539, Hernando De Soto made landfall with an army of 600 soldiers and hired mercenaries and were immediately met with fierce resistance by the indigenous people. King Charles V had issued orders to conquer those people, populate and then pacify the land. De Soto’s expedition was the first known exploration of the southern United States.
But what began with blood and enslavement has ended in a memorial that is peaceful and beautiful. Those who perished have not been forgotten. In fact, at first sight, it is surprising to see some may still be there, seeing you, while not in life but representative of it.
There is a re-creation of a Native American village and there are trails with signs containing everything from quotes of those who journaled the expedition to the ruins of the Tabby House, a home built in approximately 1843. In the woods and along the trails are Native Americans and conquistadors. In the visitor center are pieces of historic armor, weapons and artifacts from the period. There is also a bookstore. From December through April, the Park Service offers Camp Uzita, a living history camp that ends with a re-enactment of De Soto’s landing on the beaches.
From the park, it is possible to lay your eyes on three major bodies of water: the Manatee River, Tampa Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. Other than escaping back into time and visiting the handful of sights, the real attraction to De Soto National Memorial is the peace and beauty of the land and the water. A handful of benches are placed at strategic locations, for sitting, contemplating and just letting your blood pressure fall a little bit. And within that peace is a bounty of nature, from mangrove forests to white sand beaches, wild lime trees to buttonwood trees. And there is native wildlife in abundance. Much of what you can see is the same as what De Soto saw when landing in the Tampa Bay area, presenting a rare opportunity for lovers of both nature and history.
Some historical accounts state that the expedition brought hundreds of horses, a herd of pigs and “war dogs.” Some locals believe that the wild pigs commonly seen in Manatee and Hillsborough counties are the half-millennial descendants of the pigs from De Soto’s expedition.
In all, the expedition lasted four years and covered an estimated 4,000 miles, all at a great cost of life. In place of the hoped-for gold that was never found, natives were enslaved and the door to the southern portion of America had been flung wide open to Spain and other world powers of the time.
The story behind the expedition isn’t a happy one. The mission of the memorial, established in 1948, is to preserve that story. Despite the brutal chronicles, the impact the expedition had on American history and advancement is vast.
Although challenges remain around the world, here at De Soto National Memorial, where there was once war and bloodshed, there is now peace and beauty.
For boaters, there are few dangers in the peaceful anchorage, offering a view of 500 years ago. For drivers, just a short detour off traffic-choked S.R. 64 is a place that will take you back in time. Peacefully and gently.
De Soto National Memorial is part of the National Park Service and is located in Bradenton. From U.S. 41, take S.R. 64 west (toward the beaches). Take a right turn on 75th Street, which will wind through a residential area to the park. There is no entrance or parking fee.